“The World is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”—Augustine of Hippo
Countless things bring me happiness in my life: my family and friends, my love of reading and writing, and my passion for gardening and cooking. But the joy that comes from traveling adds an elevated level of excitement, often leaving me filled with awe and wonder. I love that travel pushes me outside my comfort zone, exposing me to new places and people that become cherished memories. Although often exhausted, I return home feeling alive, creative, and younger. And that is exactly how I felt after our most recent adventure, with the Illinois State Alumni Association’s Alumni Travel Program’s inaugural trip to Italy. The Flavors of Northern Italy was promoted as:
“A cultural and gastronomic journey to an enchanting region of Northern Italy renowned for spectacular landscapes, world-class wine, and a rich heritage.”
Our group of 15 travelers was led by Illinois State’s Executive Director of Alumni Engagement, Kris Harding, M.S. ’94. Our home away from home for the week was Selva Capuzza, a 124-acre family-owned wine estate near Verona in the Lombardy region of Italy. The charming, well-preserved historic buildings with terracotta rooftops and rustic stone walls set amid vineyards and olive groves were a quintessential setting straight out of an Italian movie! Our accommodation was a three-room apartment, which was refreshed each day with a bottle of estate wine. After a long day of touring, we would arrive back at our room, freshen up, grab our bottle of wine, and sit on a nearby patio to quench our thirst and enjoy the camaraderie of our newfound friends.
We began each day with a generous breakfast buffet featuring a variety of locally sourced and delicious foods, including scrumptious croissants. We then climbed on our small bus and headed out to learn about the history, culture, and flavors of Northern Italy. Everywhere we looked, the countryside was amazing. We saw terraced vineyards and olive trees; beautiful freshwater lakes surrounded by charming towns; historic farmhouses, and ancient structures as old as the eighth century B.C.
Not far from Selva Capuzza, we visited a structure renowned not for its age, but for its purpose. The 242-foot tower of San Martino della Battaglia was erected in 1878 to commemorate the death of over 5,000 soldiers in the Second Italian War of Independence. Jean Henri Dunant witnessed the battle in person and was motivated by the horrific suffering of so many soldiers. To honor these men, he began a campaign that resulted in the establishment of the International Red Cross. Everyone on the tour climbed the tower where we witnessed a magnificent 360-degree view of the countryside.
Italy has more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any other country, 58 in total. Due to its historical heritage, the entire city of Verona was awarded the status in 2000. We met up with a local guide who led us through this remarkable city. We marveled at the Romanesque architecture of the San Zeno Basilica. We stood in awe before the ancient Roman Amphitheater, built a half-century before the Roman Colosseum. Once the site of gladiator games, it now serves as an open-air theatre for opera, concerts, and other events. We continued to Piazza delle Erbe, a charming courtyard surrounded by quaint cafes with outdoor tables; we could not resist taking a break to enjoy a refreshing scoop of gelato. As we walked through the streets of Verona, the setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, we fell in love with the city and yearned to someday return. Each day, we explored a different region of Northern Italy. We took a boat trip around Lago d’Iseo to a quaint fishing village where we observed the ancient art of making fishing nets used to catch sardines, an export of the area for generations. We visited the charming town of Malcesine on the northeastern shore of Lake Garda at the foot of the massive Alps. We visited Soave and Sirmione. We saw castles and Roman ruins, strolled through shops, and photographed breathtaking scenery. We encountered friendly shop owners speaking Italian, German, or broken English. It is not possible to expound on every quaint town, castle, church, or beautiful scene we viewed, but know that the photo ops were plentiful and the experiences enriching.
One of the reasons Italy is the fifth most traveled country in the world is its delicious food and wine. I am sure everyone on the tour would agree that we had an extensive sampling of both. Since consumption of pasta for the average Italian is fifty-five pounds a year, it was no surprise that we tried many different kinds. We learned early on that the Italians’ way of eating was much different than ours. Rather than the super-sized servings we get in America, we were given several small courses at dinner, allowing us to taste and savor many varying samples of Italian food. The Italians relax and enjoy their meals with much conversation, laughter, sometimes music, and of course, wine. Several of our meals were at Casina Capuzza, a short walk from our apartment, but we also dined at other locations, savoring dishes using locally sourced ingredients prepared by expert chefs. From a cheese-making demonstration at a family-run cheese shop, risotto stirred by hand over a wood fire, a visit to Modena to try award-winning balsamic vinegar or gourmet Italian pizza on the southern shore of Lake Garda, our taste buds were tempted and our stomachs filled. One of my personal favorites was a cooking lesson where we learned to make Italian pasta and desserts. We not only lunched on the fruits of our labor but were given the recipes to take home to perfect our Italian cooking skills.
Most of us on the tour were not strangers to tasting or consuming wine, but after visiting several wineries in a week, we felt elevated to the level of expert wine tasters! We sampled award-winning sparkling wine in the Lombardy region, classic local varieties at the de Tarsal estate in the Trentino region, and met wine maker Giuseppe Leonardi to taste his special blend, Privilegia. We visited many more family-owned wineries and spent time at our Selva Capuzza winery. Just when we thought we had tasted the best wine ever, our taste buds surprised us with a better one. Wine making in Italy is a serious business; the variety of grapes and processes used is controlled by the Italian government. Additional ingredients and additives, often found in American wine, are not allowed, thus yielding a richer and purer quality wine. No wonder Italy is the largest producer of wine in the world!
We saw amazing scenery, were well-versed in Italian history, sampled delectable cuisine, and consumed too much wine to measure, all because of the efforts of so many people. Our funny, smart, and very organized guide, Antonella, was passionate about everything Northern Italy had to offer. All of the staff at Selva Capuzza went above and beyond to make our stay memorable. The business owners and shopkeepers who shared their history and product knowledge did so earnestly, making us feel like family and friends rather than tourists. Everywhere we went, the Italian people were warm, welcoming, and passionate about everything Italian. They are a happy people who love their country and their way of life. Life in Italy truly is ‘La dolce vita’ (the sweet life). Harding, along with her husband, Jamie, was the glue who kept everything together, and above all, truly reflected the Redbird spirit everywhere we went. They fostered the camaraderie that made strangers into friends. The inaugural trip of Illinois State University’s Alumni Travel Program was a huge success, and the bar has been set high for future trips.
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines; Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore! Dream! Discover!”—Mark Twain
The Alumni and Friends Travel Program is open to all alumni, family, and friends—because the Redbird spirit knows no borders. To learn more about upcoming trips, detailed itineraries, and how to reserve your place, visit the travel program website.
Mary is the author of four books and numerous articles appearing in various publications. She is married to Gary Gemberling ’63, an alum and long-time supporter of Illinois State University.
